I've spent way too many long afternoons wrestling with rolls of high-tensile wire to not appreciate how much the right fence tools wire pulling setup matters for your sanity. If you've ever tried to hand-stretch a line of barbed wire only to have it sag the second you nail it to the post, you know exactly what I'm talking about. A good fence isn't just about the posts you sink into the ground; it's about the tension you can maintain over the long haul.
Whether you're keeping cattle in or just trying to mark your property line, the physics of a fence are pretty simple: tension is king. But getting that tension without snapping the wire—or your back—requires a bit of specialized gear. Let's look at what actually works when you're out in the field.
The Workhorse: The Chain Strainer
When most people think about fence tools wire pulling, the chain strainer (or "walking" strainer) is the first thing that comes to mind. It's a deceptively simple piece of equipment, but it's basically the gold standard for a reason. Unlike a standard hardware store come-along, a chain strainer is designed specifically for wire.
The beauty of a chain strainer is its "walking" mechanism. You've got two hooks that alternate as you pump the handle, pulling the wire along the chain. This gives you a lot of control. If you're using a standard winch, it's easy to over-tighten and snap your line. With a chain strainer, you can feel the tension building. It's also a lot easier to release the tension slowly if you realize you've gone a bit too far.
One thing I've learned the hard way: always check your chain for kinks before you start pulling. A kinked chain will jump the gears, and when you're dealing with a wire under several hundred pounds of pressure, that "thud" sound is the last thing you want to hear.
The Essential Hand Tools
You can't do everything with a big strainer. Sometimes you're just doing repair work or tightening up a short run between two H-braces. That's where your hand fence tools wire pulling kit comes into play.
The Multi-Tool of the Woods: Fence Pliers
If you aren't carrying a pair of fencing pliers on your hip, are you even fencing? These things look like a cross between a hammer, a pair of pliers, and a parrot's beak. They're indispensable. You can use the head to hammer in staples, the "beak" to pull old staples out, and the side cutters to snip wire.
But for pulling wire, the real secret is the little notch in the hinge. You can grip a loose wire and use the leverage of the pliers against the post to get that last half-inch of tightness before you staple it down. It's not going to give you the tension of a chain strainer, but for quick fixes, it's a lifesaver.
Wire Grips (The Buffalo Grip)
If you're working with smooth wire or high-tensile stuff, your pliers won't always give you the grip you need. That's where a wire grip—sometimes called a Buffalo grip—comes in. It's a cam-action tool that bites down harder on the wire the more you pull it.
I like to use these in tandem with a come-along. You attach the grip to the wire, hook the come-along to the grip, and then anchor the other end to your truck or a corner post. It's a great way to pull a long line tight without damaging the galvanized coating on the wire, which is a big deal if you don't want your fence rusting out in three years.
Handling Woven Wire and Field Fence
Stretching a single strand of wire is one thing, but pulling an entire roll of woven wire (like goat or hog fencing) is a completely different beast. You can't just hook a strainer to one spot on the mesh; you'll just pull the fence out of shape and end up with a mess.
To handle this, you need a stretcher bar. This is basically a long metal bar that bolts vertically onto the end of your fence roll. It distributes the pulling force across all the horizontal wires at once. Once the bar is bolted on, you attach your fence tools wire pulling chains to the top, middle, and bottom of the bar and pull from a central point.
It takes a bit more time to set up, but it's the only way to get a professional-looking finish on field fence. If you see a fence that's "billowing" at the bottom or sagging in the middle, it's usually because someone tried to pull it by hand or didn't use a proper stretcher bar.
Pro-Tips for Better Tensioning
After a few miles of wire, you start to pick up a few tricks that the manuals don't always mention. Here are a couple of things that might save you some frustration:
- Tension from the middle: On long runs, don't just pull from one end. If you pull 500 feet of wire from one corner, the friction of the wire dragging against the grass and the intermediate posts will give you uneven tension. It's often better to set up your fence tools wire pulling gear in the middle of the run and pull both sides toward each other, then join them with a crimp or a "Western Union" twist.
- The "Ping" Test: How do you know if it's tight enough? Some guys use a tension gauge, which is great if you want to be precise. But most old-timers just give the wire a sharp tap with their pliers. A well-tensioned wire should have a clear, high-pitched "ping." If it thuds, it's too loose. If it sounds like a guitar string about to snap, back it off a notch.
- Don't over-staple: When you're pulling wire, don't hammer your staples all the way in yet. You want the wire to be able to slide through the staple so the tension can equalize across the whole length. Once everything is tight and the fence looks straight, then you can go back and give them that final tap—but even then, leave a tiny bit of room so the wire can expand and contract with the temperature.
Safety is Not Optional
We really need to talk about safety for a second. Wire under tension is basically a giant, sharp spring. If a wire snaps or a grip slips while you're in the middle of a pull, that wire is coming back at you fast.
Always wear leather gloves. Not the cheap thin ones, but decent cowhide. High-tensile wire can slice through skin like a hot knife through butter. Eye protection is also a must. It feels overkill when you're out in the middle of a field, but a "whipping" wire end doesn't care about your weekend plans.
Also, try to stand to the side of the wire you're pulling, not directly in line with it. If something breaks, you want the wire to fly past you, not into you. It sounds like common sense, but when you're tired and trying to finish the last 20 feet of a paddock, it's easy to get lazy. Don't.
Keeping Your Tools in Shape
Like any other gear, your fence tools wire pulling equipment needs a little love. I usually keep a can of WD-40 or some lithium grease in the truck. The hinges on your chain strainer can get gritty with dirt and rust, especially if they've been sitting in the back of a damp shed all winter.
A quick spray keeps the "walking" mechanism smooth. Also, check the teeth on your wire grips. If they get clogged with bits of galvanized coating or dirt, they'll start to slip. A stiff wire brush can clean those right up.
Wrapping Up
Building a fence is one of those jobs that's incredibly satisfying once it's done, but it can be a nightmare if you're fighting your equipment the whole time. Investing in a decent set of fence tools wire pulling gear—a solid chain strainer, a pair of reliable pliers, and a good stretcher bar—really changes the experience.
Instead of a saggy, sad-looking fence that needs constant maintenance, you'll end up with something that stays tight and looks good for years. It's one of those rare cases where the right tools don't just make the job faster; they actually make the end result better. So, take your time, watch your tension, and keep your fingers out of the gears!